If
I'm going to get you to try this method, I better have some pretty good
reasons. I'll give you two: fantastic browning, and an outrageous sauce
you'll make from the pan drippings.
Browning vs. Searing. If you take a look at recipes
for pan-frying steaks you'll see this again and again: "Sear meat over
high heat to seal in juices." There's one word for this--bogus.
I like what Harold McGee had to say on this subject in his book, The Curious Cook.
Based on that, (and experience) here's my summary: Searing meat is just
cooking it quickly over high heat until a brown crust forms. It doesn't
seal a thing! The whole process of cooking meat, on the other hand, has
a lot to do with extracting liquid from it. And there's no way around
that. The more it cooks, the more liquid is lost -- searing or not.
An Experiment. If you're a little skeptical, try an
experiment. Sear two identical steaks over high heat. Then cook one
rare and the other well done. Will the well done steak turn out as
juicy as the rare one? No matter what you do, the fact is, well done
meat is always going to be less juicy than rare meat. Editor's note: Mr. McGee did a similar, but more detailed, scientific experiment to prove this point.
Taste. So why is searing misunderstood? Because it
does add flavor -- loads of it. It's just that the flavor is added to
the outside, in the form of browning (caramelization).
Searing requires high temperatures -- just what you want for
browning. As juices escape, the outside of the meat gets drier, and
also hotter. That hot, dry part of the meat is needed for the chemical
reactions to occur that cause intense browning.
So, will that brown crust stop juice from coming out? No. But
I'll tell you this: Every time I see it, I get myself ready for
something special.
Now for the Beurre Rouge Sauce
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PAN-FRIED STRIP STEAK (Serves 4) Cook Time: 12 Minutes Fry over Medium-High Heat: 1 T. olive oil
2 New York Strip Steaks 14 oz. each (1-1/2 inches thick) PAN-FRYING STEAK ONE
Pour olive oil into a sauce pan. Use a paper towel to coat the entire
inside of the pan with oil. Heat Skillet up to medium-high.  TWO
The pan is ready when you can throw a little piece of fat in and the
fat starts sizzling right away. For medium rare 1-1/2"- thick steaks,
cook six minutes on one side, then flip the steak and cook 6 minutes on
the other side.  THREE
The meat should be nicely browned on both sides by now. Double check
doneness by thermometer, touch, or cutting, to make sure it's done the
way you want it. |